kimono

Kimono (着 物?) was traditional Japanese clothing. The literal meaning of the kimono is worn clothes or a something (ki means life, and the mono means goods).

In the current era, kimono shaped like the letter "T", like long sleeved and the collared coat. The length of the kimono is made up to the ankles. Woman wearing a kimono-shaped frocks, while men wear a kimono-shaped setting. Collar right side should be under the collar left. Cloth called obi belt wrapped around the belly / waist, and the tied at the back. Footwear while wearing a kimono was zori or a geta.

Kimono is now more often worn ladies on special occasions. Unmarried woman wearing kimono called furisode kind. [1] Characteristic furisode arm width was almost touching the floor. Women who reached the age of 20 years wearing furisode for a attend shiki permission. Men dressed in kimono at weddings, tea ceremonies, and the other formal events. When performing outside sumo arena, professional wrestlers are required to wear a kimono. [2] Children dressed in kimono while attending a celebration Shichi-Go-San. Moreover, kimono worn worker services and the tourism industry, serving woman traditional restaurants (Ryotei) and the employees of a traditional inn (ryokan).

Japanese traditional trousseau (hanayome Isho) consists of furisode and the uchikake (coat worn over furisode). Furisode for the bride is different from furisode for a young unmarried ladies. Materials for a furisode bride was given motif is believed to invite good luck, such as a bird picture level. Color furisode bride also brighter than usual furisode. Shiromuku is the name for the traditional form of the bride's dress white furisode clean with the woven pattern that is also white.

As distinct from Western clothing (yōfuku), known since the Meiji era, the Japanese call the traditional Japanese clothing as wafuku (和服?, Clothing Japan). Before familiar Western clothing, all clothing worn by the Japanese called kimono. Another term for kimono was gofuku (呉 服?). Gofuku term originally used to refer to the country outfit Dong Wu (Japanese: Go countries) who arrived in Japan from mainland China.

table of contents

     1 Kimono ladies
     2 Kimono men
     3 History
         3.1 Period Jomon and the Yayoi era
         3.2 Kofun period
         3.3 Nara period
         3.4 Heian
         3.5 Period Kamakura and the Muromachi period
         3.6 Early Edo period
         3.7 The end of the Edo period
         3.8 Period Meiji and the Taisho Era
         3.9 Showa Period
     4 Business kimono
     5 Accessories and the complements
     6 References
     7 External links

kimono ladies
Kurotomesode with 5 family crest

Selection of the appropriate type kimono requires knowledge of symbolism and the contained a veiled hint of each type kimono. Level of formality determined the woman's kimono woven patterns and the colors, ranging from the most formal kimono up casual kimono. Based on the type wear kimono, kimono can show the user age, marital status, and the level of formality of the event attended.

     Kurotomesode

     Tomesode was most formal kimono for a married women. When black, kimono type is called kurotomesode (literal meaning: black Tomesode). Kurotomesode have a family crest (kamon) in three the place: one in the back, two in the upper chest (right / left), and the 2 rear arm (right / left). Characteristic kurotomesode was beautiful motif on Suso (bottom about a foot) front and the rear. Kurotomesode used for a attend wedding receptions and the events are very officially.

Girl wearing furisode

     Irotomesode

     Tomesode made of colored cloth called irotomesode (literal meaning: Tomesode colored). Depending on the degree of formality of the occasion, the user can choose the number of family emblem on kimono fabrics, ranging from of the, three, up to five pieces for a a very formal event. This type kimono worn the adult women who have / have not married. Kimono type irotomesode used for a attend an event that does not allow guest for a come wearing kurotomesode, eg reception at the imperial court. Just as kurotomesode, characteristic irotomesode was beautiful motif on Suso.

     furisode

     Furisode was most formal kimono for a unmarried young ladies. Bright colorful materials with the striking motifs throughout the fabric. Characteristic furisode was sections a very wide sleeves and the hanging down. Furisode worn when attending the ceremony shiki permission, attend a friend's wedding reception, ceremony, or a Hatsumōde. Trousseau called hanayome Isho including one type furisode.

     Hōmongi

     Hormones-gi (訪問 着?, Literally meaning: clothes for a visit) was a formal kimono for a ladies, both married and unmarried. Users are free to choose for a wear a coat of pictorial material or a not. Characteristic Hōmongi was the motive in all parts of the fabric, front and the rear. Hōmongi be used as guest wedding reception, a tea ceremony, or a celebrate the new year. [3]

     iromuji

     Iromuji was semi-formal kimono, but can be used as a formal kimono when iromuji has a family crest (kamon). In accordance with the the level of formality kimono, family crest there can be 1, 3, or a 5 the place (the back, arms, and the chest). Iromoji made of materials not patterned and the colored soft materials, pink, light blue, or a yellow or a soft colors. Iromuji with the the family crest can be worn in 5 places for a attend a wedding. When attending a tea ceremony, quite worn iromuji with the of the family crest.

     Tsukesage

     Tsukesage was semi-formal kimono for a ladies who have or a have not been married. According to the the level of formality, just a notch below the notch tsukesage Hōmongi. Kimono this type do not have a family crest. Tsukesage charged for a attend the tea ceremony is not so officially, wedding party, party officially, or a celebrate the new year. [3]

     Komon

     Komon was casual kimono for a ladies who have or a have not been married. Characteristic of this type of kimono was simple motifs and the small size are repeated. [3] Komon charged for a attend the reunion party, dinner, meet with the friends, or a watch a show in the building.

     Tsumugi

     Tsumugi was casual kimono worn daily for a at home the ladies who has or a has not been married. Nevertheless, this type of kimono may be charged for a out of the house such as shopping and the strolling. The materials used was simple woven fabrics of cotton or a silk yarn low grade thick and the coarse. [3] This type Kimono durable, and the once worn for a work in the fields.

     yukata

     Yukata was casual kimono made of cheesecloth without coating for a casual occasions in summer.

kimono men

Male kimono made of dark-colored materials such as dark green, dark brown, dark blue, and the black.

     The most formal kimono form montsuki black suit with the hakama and the haori

     The back montsuki decorated family crest user. Montsuki suit worn together hakama and the haori is a traditional men's wedding dress. This setting is only charged when attending a very officially ceremony, for example, the reception of the award of the emperor / government or a permission shiki.

     Casual kimono kinagashi

     Men wearing kinagashi as everyday wear or a when out of the house on occasion unofficial. Kabuki actors wear when practicing. This type kimono decorated with family crest.

history
Age Jomon and the Yayoi era
Clothing for ladies at about 1870

Jomon era kimono and the Yayoi era shaped like frocks. From archaeological sites pile of shells found Haniwa Jomon era. On the clothing worn Haniwa called Kantoi (貫 頭 衣?).

In Gishiwajinden (Chinese history books about the three countries) written on casuals for a men. Cloth slung horizontally on a man's body such as clothing monk, and the a piece of cloth wrapped around the head. Clothes ladies named Kantoi. In the middle of a piece of cloth made a hole for a enter the head. Rope is used as a binder in the waist.

Still according Gishiwajinden, empress named Himiko of Yamatai (ancient times for a the Japanese title) "always wear white Kantoi". Hemp fiber is the material of clothing for a ordinary people, while the rank of wearing silk fabrics.
Kofun period

Kofun era clothing under the influence of the Chinese mainland, and the consists of two piece clothing: clothing top and the bottom garments. Haniwa dressed up like a coat worn over Kantoi. Clothing bottom of the form skirt wrapped around the waist. From the discovery of visible Haniwa wide-legged pants clothing such as hakama.

In the Kofun era became known clothing sewn. The front of Kantoi made open and the sleeves bottom began stitched for easy wear. Furthermore, over the shirt collar consists of the two type:

     Flat collar up to just below the neck (agekubi)
     Collar-shaped "V" (tarekubi) which met in the chest.

Nara period

Asuka era aristocrat named Prince Shotoku appointed twelve strata positions in the imperial court (kan-i jūnikai). Court officials are distinguished by color decoration headgear (Kanmuri). In the book of the law of Taiho Ritsuryo published regulations on formal dress, fashion palace officials, and the uniforms in the palace. Formal attire worn civilian officials (Bunkan) sewn on the bottom of the armpit. Military officials wearing formal attire is not sewn on the bottom of the armpit so that the wearer to move freely. Clothing and the accessories Nara era heavily influenced Chinese culture to Japan. Tang Dynasty cultural influences come popularized the so-called narrow-sleeved shirt kosode for a be worn as underwear.

At times there is a change in the way Nara wearing a kimono. If previously collar sections should were left under the collar right side, since the time of Nara, the collar right side should be under the collar left. How to wear the kimono of the Nara era to be maintained up to now. Only people died applied kimono with the the left collar is under the right collar.
Heian Period

According to the aristocratic Michizane Sugawara, termination delivery Japanese envoy for a the Tang Dynasty (kentoshi) fueled the growth of the local culture. The ordinance dress and the standardization protocols for a formal ceremonies began officially designated. The decree resulted in increasingly complex fashion Heian period. Heian era woman wearing layered clothing called jūnihitoe. Not only ladies Heian period, formal wear for the military also be impractical.

There are three type men's clothing for a officials in the Heian period:

     Sokutai (officially ceremony clothing such as a suit)
     I-kan (clothing for a everyday officially duties are slightly lighter than sokutai)
     Noshi (clothing for a personal opportunities that looks similar to the i-kan).

People used to wear clothes called suikan or a kariginu (狩 衣?, Literally meaning: hunting clothes). At a later date, the aristocrats make kariginu as everyday clothing before followed the samurai.

In the Heian period the taking of power by the samurai, and the nobility kept away from politics. Clothing that was once a status symbol of nobility used as a status symbol among the samurai.
Age Kamakura and the Muromachi period

In the Sengoku era, the power of government is in the hands of the samurai. Samurai wore called suikan. This type of clothing will turn into clothing called hitatare. In the Muromachi period, hitatare a samurai formal wear. In the Muromachi period known kimono called Suo (素 襖?), A kind of hitatare that do not use upholstery inside. Characteristic of Sueno was the epitome of a family in a large size in eight the place.

Women's clothing is also more simple. Skirt called mo (裳?) Shorter before replaced with the hakama. Mo suit and the hakama ultimately lost before it was replaced with the kimono canal models, and the then kimono lady called kosode. Women wearing kosode with the cloth wrapped around the waist (koshimaki) and the / or a yumaki. Long coat called uchikake wear after wear kosode.
Early Edo period

Simplifying the samurai clothing continues until the Edo period. Edo samurai clothing was called the suit a wide berpundak kamishimo (裃?). One set consists of kataginu kamishimo (肩 衣?) and the hakama. Among women, kosode becoming increasingly popular as a cultural symbol of the city who follow fashion trends.

Edo period was the golden age of kabuki theater. The discovery means doubling colorful paintings called nishiki-e or a ukiyo-e to encourage more and more paintings kabuki actor wearing a kimono expensive and the sparkling. Clothing for the city also tend to be more luxurious because iking imitate clothing kabuki actor.

The tendency of the city, the better dressed and the away from the norm Confucianism want to be limited the Edo Shogunate. Gradually the shogunate government impose kenyaku-rei, the simple life appropriate norms. Coercion failed because of people's desire for a a nice dress can not be blocked. The tradition of the tea ceremony was the cause of the failure kenyaku-rei. People attend a tea ceremony wearing a kimono that looks simple but it turns out expensive.

Kumihimo belt and the tying obi the style in the back began to be known since the Edo period. Until now, both of which survive as an accessory while wearing a kimono.
The end of the Edo period

Political isolation (sakoku) make the cessation of imports of silk thread. Kimono began to be made of silk yarn production in the country. Folk garments made of silk crape type cheaper. After the famine era Temmei (1783-1788), Edo shogunate in 1785 forbids people for a wear the kimono of silk. Clothing for the city made of cotton or a hemp cloth. Wide-sleeved kimono which is an early form of furisode popular among women.
Meiji and the Taisho Era

Flourishing industry in the Meiji era. Silk production increased, and the Japan became the largest exporter of silk. Price is no longer an expensive silk fabrics, and the became known manifold silk fabrics. Regulation of the use of silk declared invalid. Kimono for a ladies began to be made from various types of silk fabrics. Silk spinning industry was set up in wide range of the place in Japan. Along with the rapid development of the spinning industry, textile industry silk yarn grow. Products in the form wide range of silk fabrics, ranging from crepe, rinzu, omeshi, until Meisen.

The availability of various types of fabrics that can be processed led to the development fabric dyeing technique. At the start of the Meiji era known yuzen techniques, namely drawing with the a brush for a produce patterns on cloth kimono fabric.

Meanwhile, the upper class ladies still fond silk striped and the arrangement of images that are very complicated and the delicate. They wear kimono fabric of the model that has been popular since the Edo period as the best clothing when attending a special event. Almost at the same time, silk fabric woven colorful yarn dyeing results become obsolete as people.

Not long after the clothing imported from the West started to go to Japan, started a local tailor can make clothes West. Since then, the term is used for a distinguish wafuku clothing that had been worn by Japan with the clothes from the West. When the Western clothes began to be known in Japan, the top wear western clothes borrowed from Western clothing rental store.

In the Meiji era of modernization, nobility replace kimono with the Western clothes so as not to be considered old-fashioned. Nevertheless, the city who want to preserve the tradition traditional aesthetic beauty not be affected. People keep trying to defend the city and the kimono tradition maintained since the Edo period. Most men still wear kimono Meiji era for a everyday wear. As a formal dress suit men also became popular. Most women still wear the kimono of the Meiji era, except noblewoman and the female teacher in charge of teaching the girls.

Military uniforms worn the men who followed the military service. Army uniform army became a model for a school uniforms boys. Uniform school children also use the model stand collar around the neck and the do not fall into the shoulders (a stand-up collar) is exactly the model army uniform collar. At the end of the Taisho era, government run mobilization. Uniform girls school children changed from andonbakama (kimono and the hakama) into Western clothing called serafuku (sailor fuku), which is similar clothes suit sailor blouse and the skirt.
Showa Period

During the war, the government distributed uniforms for a the male population. Uniforms for a men called kokumin fuku (uniform folk). Women are forced to wear monpei shaped like trousers for a work with the rubber at the ankle.

After Japan's defeat in World War II, the Japanese ladies wearing a kimono started back before being abandoned because of the demands of modernization. Compared hassle wear kimono, Western clothing is considered more practical as a daily wear.

Until the mid 1960s, the kimono is still widely used Japanese women as everyday wear. At that time, the popularity of kimono kimono up again after the introduction of colorful wool. Women of that era like the kimono of wool as clothing for a casual occasions.

After the kimono is no longer popular, traders kimono tried various strategies for a increase sales figures kimono. One of them by issuing "regulations kimono" called Yakusoku. According to the these regulations, certain type of kimono is said to only match the specific accessory. That is for a dictate the buyer to buy as many goods. The strategy was not preferred by consumers, and the public interest in the kimono decline. Although traders kimono perform large-scale promotion, opinion "kimono wearing it complicated" has been formed in the middle of the Japanese society.

Until the 1960s, men's kimono is worn as casual wear at home. Figure man wearing a kimono at home can still be seen in a variety of manga published in the 1970s. But today, the kimono is not subject to man as the clothes in the house, except samue worn by the craftsmen.
Business kimono

Kimono fabric material was the result of the traditional Japanese art of weaving artistic merit. Kimono for a formal occasions only be made from the finest grade silk fabric and the sewn by hand only (do not use a sewing machine). Therefore, the price kimono often be very expensive. Kimono generally never sold in a state so, but must be booked and the sewn according to the body size of the user.

When buying fabric, height wearer is not taken into account. Kimono materials purchased in of the roll of cloth woven with the flawless. Buying begins with the the selection of kimono kimono fabric called tanmono (反 物?, Literally meaning: a roll of cloth with the a length of 1 tan, or a approximately 10.6 m). If by chance user kimono short stature and the slender, after finished sewn kimono kimono will be plenty of material left. The rest of kimono material can be used for a make a kimono complementary accessories, such as handbags, wallets, or a sandals.

Kimono fabric can be bought at a cheaper price on the occasion of second-class materials closeout called B-tan ichi (B 反 市?, Lit. cloth market class B) for a distinguish it from material woven kimono class A flawless. Although purchased fabric has a little flaw, an experienced tailor kimono can hide the damaged weave. Once finished, kimono fabric market class B might look the same with the kimono of the perfect material.

Kimono are sewn from high quality materials constitute a family heritage objects. Used kimono still have high sales value, especially as the size of the kimono can be adapted to the new owner body size. Japan can be found in stores that sell second-hand kimono. During World War II, the kimono has been used as a means of payment when the city's population undernourished. The money is used for a buy rice, eggs, and the herbs such as miso, and the sugar.
Accessories and the complements

     hakama

     Hakama trousers was man made of dark material. This type pants are from mainland China and the began to be known since the days of Asuka. In addition to the Shinto priest, hakama worn men and women in the field of traditional martial arts such as kendo or a kyudo.

     throne

     Geta was wooden-heeled sandals. Maiko wear high heels and thick geta called pokkuri

     Kanzashi

     Kanzashi was hair ornaments such as hairpin that is inserted into the hair while wearing a kimono.

     Obi

     Obi was belt of cloth wrapped around the wearer's body while toning kimono

     tabi

     Tabi socks along the shank was used when wearing sandals.

     Waraji

     Waraji was woven rope of straw sandals.

     zori

     Zori was a traditional sandals made of fabric or a webbing.

reference

     ^ Dalby, Liza (2001). Kimono: Fashioning Culture. Washington, USA: University of Washington Press. ISBN 0-295-98155-5.
     ^ Sharnoff, Lora (1993). Grand Sumo. Weatherhill. ISBN 0-8348-0283-X Check | isbn = value (help).
     ^ Abcd 着 付 け と 帯 結 び (Kitsuke to obi musubi). Tokyo: Sekai Bunkasha. 1996. p. 14-17. ISBN 4-418-9613-3 Check | isbn = value (help).

external links
Search Wikimedia Commons has media related to:
kimono

     (UK) About kimono
     (Japan) pictures kimono and the accessories from age to age (Fashion Museum in Kyoto